Teplichnyie Usloviya

25/3 Nab. Canal Griboyedova

Tel: 571 56 59

Open from 11 a.m. until the last customer

Menu in Russian and English

Dinner for two with alcohol 2710 rubles ($96)

Given that “Teplichnyie Usloviya” is located just off Nevsky Prospekt in the heart of St. Petersburg’s historic center, is open daily until the last customer, and features an extensive cocktail menu, one might expect to find a late-night party atmosphere upon entering. It turns out, though, that we are meant to take the restaurant’s name — a Russian phrase denoting conditions of exceptional (perhaps excessive) comfort and tranquility — at face value. The dining space attempts to create the feel of a cozy country cottage. The floors are wooden, the windowsills are strewn with baskets and (real) plants, and the general color scheme is white and light green. It feels more suited to a quiet lunch after work than a party with friends.

The restaurant doesn’t manage to bring off the homey feel it strives for.  Several unattractive touches — ceiling lamps with what appear to be cloth stockings for shades, plastic flowers and butterflies that dangle alongside them — as well as the space’s general brightness give it the feel of a nursery school playroom. The background music is almost all Beatles tunes, and while this is a step up from the gruesome techno so often inflicted on St. Petersburg diners, it does add to the retro atmosphere. Ultimately, the dining room is more tacky than cozy.

However, thanks to its unusually friendly wait staff, one could never say the restaurant isn’t welcoming. And the food, if not quite as inspired as the best St. Petersburg has to offer, is generally excellent and well worth its (modest) asking price. The menu consists mainly of simple French dishes; the secret to their success lies not in any “innovative” tinkering, but in solid craftsmanship and the use of fresh ingredients.

We began with the Cream of pumpkin soup (150 rubles, $5) and the Ceviche in a cheese basket (180 rubles, $6). In the soup, the mild pumpkin flavor was well complemented by fresh basil, though it could have used a bit more creaminess. The ceviche, one of the more imaginative items on the menu, was perfect in every way: the shrimp, onions, and tomatoes merged into a tangy blend while at the same time preserving their distinctive flavors, and the surrounding cheese basket provided a superbly crunchy finish.

The main courses were on a similarly high level. The Baked salmon fillet with hollaindaise sauce (370 rubles, $13) was rich and flavorful, if a bit on the dry side. The Duck breast (310 rubles, $11) was cooked to just the right degree — not too tough, not too flabby — and the fat left on the meat added flavor without overwhelming it. What  made the dish really pleasurable, though, was the rich cheese sauce served alongside the duck meat. Both of our side dishes — the Grilled vegetables (150 rubles, $5), and the Vegetable ratatouille (230 rubles, $8). — were superbly seasoned, generously sized, and featured gratifyingly fresh veggies.

With the exception of the ceviche, all of these dishes were potentially ordinary staples made excellent by skill and good taste. If anything, the restaurant displayed even more care when it came to dessert, which proved to be the highlight of the meal. The Plumb crumble (100 rubles, $4) was airy yet moist, sweet but not at all saccharine. The Homemade ice cream (170, $6) — which, our waitress proudly emphasized, the restaurant prepares in its own — may be the best reason to pay this place a visit. Anyone who has tried homemade ice cream knows that it has far more freshness and flavor than even the best store-bought brands. This particular example, which was graced with fresh raspberries, was no exception. Both desserts were very generously sized given their low prices.

Having been well satisfied with our meal, we couldn’t resist sampling the large cocktail menu, and we weren’t disappointed. The Strawberry margarita (280 rubles, $10) was especially notable for its use of real strawberries — even those who do not normally take to fruit cocktails may be won over by this touch. Overall, “Teplichnyie Usloviya” offers affordable, fresh, carefully prepared food and friendly service at a convenient location, all of which more than compensates for its misconceived décor.